Mythic Guitar Co

Build your own guitar — $1,500 flat labor, plus parts
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$1,500 flat labor

One price for all the work on a standard guitar, however long it takes us. You pick the parts and we buy them for you at our cost plus 15%. No design fee, no engineering fee, no CAM fee, no packaging fee — they are all inside the $1,500.

What $1,500 covers

  • Flat body — solid, no carve, no chambering
  • Bolt-on neck, flat (not angled into the body)
  • 6, 7 or 8 string guitar — or 4, 5 or 6 string bass
  • One colour, in gloss, satin or matte
  • Angled headstock if you want one
  • All the machining, fretwork, finishing, wiring, assembly and setup

What it does not

  • Parts — pickups, tuners, bridge, wood, electronics. You pick them, we buy them at our cost plus 15% and actual shipping.
  • Sales tax and the card-processing fee, added on each payment.
  • The upgrades listed below — each one adds its own price when you choose it.
  • Parts research, if you leave the form unfinished — about 4 minutes per blank answer at $65/hour ($50 minimum, $500 cap). Fill it in and there is nothing to pay.
Want more than a standard guitar? Here is exactly what each upgrade costs.

Pick any of these further down the form and the price below is added to your labor — you will watch the total change as you go. Nothing here is off the table.

Bridge routing — non-standard
A recessed or system bridge is a deep, tightly toleranced route with no second attempt.
+$50–$550
Set neck / neck-through joint labor
A through-neck is a different instrument to build: a laminated blank, wings glued and carved to it, and no second chance on alignment.
+$150–$250
Custom inlay work
Inlay is cut, routed and levelled into the board by hand; a block and a vine are not the same job, which is why the price moves with the design.
+$30–$200
Binding — body
Both sides bound — $95 a side.
+$95–$190
Body shape — non-standard outline
A shape that is not one of our existing programs has to be drawn, toolpathed and proved before a single cut.
+$150–$180
Body finish — nitro or UV
Nitro and UV are not the standard finish: more coats, a longer cure and their own booth time.
+$120–$150
Cavity cover fabrication
A cover that is not stock plastic is made here — cut, fitted to the route and finished to match.
+$85–$150
Carved top labor
Carving and sanding a contoured top by hand after the CNC pass.
+$60–$150
Custom wiring surcharge
Switched pots carry the split or tap wiring on the pot itself.
+$25–$120
Setup — custom targets
Action below our standard target needs the frets levelled to a tighter tolerance than a normal setup.
+$10–$120
Neck finish — nitro or UV
Nitro and UV are not the standard finish: more coats, a longer cure and their own booth time.
+$120
Cavity shielding labor
Cutting and burnishing copper foil into every cavity, then grounding it.
+$10–$110
Chambering / semi-hollow routing
Extra routing, a separate cap glue-up and the clean-up that follows.
+$100
Compound / custom fretboard radius
A compound radius is cut and sanded across a changing curve rather than one fixed arc.
+$100
Headstock finish
A headstock finished differently to the neck is masked and sprayed as its own part.
+$15–$100
Multiscale (fanned fret) setup
Fanned fret layout, a bespoke slotting program and a bridge that has to be placed to it.
+$50–$100
Extended string count
More strings means a wider neck, its own nut and bridge spacing, and a fret slot layout that is not one of ours.
+$75–$100
Binding — neck
Binding a fretboard is slower than binding a body: every fret end is dressed by hand.
+$90
Multi-colour / special finish labor
More than one colour means masking, separate spray passes and blending, and a metallic or sparkle shows every flaw in the lay-down.
+$75
Sculpted heel / AANJ
Joint / heel: "AANJ (All Access Neck Joint)" is extra work over the standard build.
+$75
Neck angle (tilt) labor
An angled neck pocket is its own fixture and its own machining setup, and the bridge height has to be worked out to it.
+$60
Side dot upgrade
Anything past plain dots is drilled, set and levelled by hand, and the material costs more.
+$30–$60
Coil split / tap wiring
Splits need a second conductor per pickup, more solder joints, and every switch position tested.
+$50
String-through ferrule install
Through-body holes drilled dead straight from both faces, and every ferrule seated flush.
+$20–$50
Treble bleed
A bleed network is built and fitted onto the volume pot.
+$50
Non-standard fret count
A fret count off the standard 22 or 24 changes the slot layout, the neck extension and the pickup geometry.
+$50
Angled headstock labor
An angled headstock needs a thicker blank and a separate machining setup.
+$50
Logo inlay work
Routing and fitting an inlaid logo into the headstock.
+$5–$50
Volute carve
The volute is carved and blended into the back of the neck by hand after machining.
+$50
Active electronics install
Battery box routing, the extra cavity and a stereo jack to switch the preamp off.
+$50
Push-pull wiring positions
Each switched position is its own set of solder joints and its own bench test.
+$45
Stainless fret labor surcharge
Stainless wire dulls files and takes longer to level, crown and polish than nickel.
+$30
Locking output jack install
A locking jack needs its own cup fitting and a tighter route.
+$20
Floating tremolo setup
A floating trem is balanced against the springs and re-intonated repeatedly before it holds.
+$20

Anything you answer Custom or Other to — a body shape from a photo, an inlay you drew, a bridge nobody makes — is quoted by hand. Choose it and we price it with you before any work starts; the running total names which of your answers those are.

Before you start — please read

Fill this in as completely as you can, and paste links to the exact parts you want wherever you can. Every row has a box for a product link.

If we have to do the research for you

If this form is left incomplete and we have to spend time researching parts, finding links and sourcing components on your behalf, we charge for that time — about four minutes per answer you leave blank, at our $65/hour specification rate (minimum $50, capped at $500). Nothing left blank, nothing charged. The last page shows you exactly where you stand — how many blanks, how many hours, what it costs — before you send it, and the number drops every time you fill something in. This is the only charge that is not inside the flat $1,500. And we need the sheet at least 70% filled in before it will send — this price is for one complete guitar, built start to finish, so we need to know what the whole instrument is. If you only want a body, or a body and a neck, this is not the right lane: text us on (254) 348-4827 and we will quote that on its own. Stuck on something? Ask the assistant at the bottom of the page — it answers any row here, and it is free.

Your info

Mailing address *

Body

Orientation
Left-handed is a mirrored body, neck and controls — not a right-handed guitar strung backwards. Tell us here and everything else follows from it.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Shape
The outline of the guitar. Pick a classic if you want it to feel familiar, or Custom if you have something of your own in mind.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
📷 Upload your idea — photos, sketches, CAD
A photo of a guitar you like, a drawing, a screenshot, a napkin sketch. If you picked Custom, upload your shape files here — we cannot cut a custom shape without them.
You picked Custom — upload your drawing or CAD file (DXF, SVG, PDF, STEP…) so we can cut it.
Construction type
Solid is the standard. Chambered removes wood inside to cut weight. Semi-hollow and Hollow add air and a looser, woodier response — and more feedback at volume.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Body thickness
How deep the body is. Thicker is heavier and fuller; thinner is more comfortable to wear for long sets. Leave it standard unless you know you want otherwise.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Top carve
Contours that make the guitar sit against you. A forearm contour saves your picking arm and a belly cut saves your ribs — most people want both. A fully carved top is a look, and it is labour.
Your choice
Flat
Forearm contour
Belly contour
Carved top
Other
Pick as many as apply. Flat can't be combined with the others.
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Body finish — type
How the wood is sealed. Nitro is thin, traditional and ages; Poly is tougher and more durable; UV cures hard and fast; Oil and Wax feel raw and natural. Raw or Paint Ready means we leave it for you to finish.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Body finish — color
The actual colour. If you have a reference — a photo, a paint code, another guitar — paste the link in the reference field and we will match it.
Your choice
Single color
Two-tone
Sparkle
Metallic
Pearl
Burst
Natural
Other
Pick as many as apply.
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Body finish — sheen
How shiny it is. Gloss is mirror-bright, Satin is soft and fingerprint-friendly, Matte is flat. Purely taste.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Body binding
A contrasting edge trim around the body. Classy and traditional, and it adds real hand-work to the build.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Control cavity route
The pocket routed for your pots and switch. Standard is fine unless you are planning unusual electronics.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Control cavity cover
The plate over that pocket on the back.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Body — section notes
Anything about the body that the questions above did not cover.

Neck

String count
Six is standard. Seven and eight add low range and a wider neck.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck construction
Bolt-on is serviceable and snappy, Set neck is glued and warmer, Neck-through runs the full length for the smoothest upper-fret access — and costs the most.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Joint / heel
Where the neck meets the body. A sculpted or contoured heel makes the top frets far easier to reach.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Profile
The shape of the back of the neck in your hand. C is the familiar round one, D is flatter, V has a spine down the middle, U is chunky. If unsure, C.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Profile thickness
How deep front-to-back. Thin is fast, thick fills the hand and some players find it less fatiguing.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Fretboard radius
How curved the board is across its width. Small numbers (7.25") are vintage and curved, big numbers (16"+) are flat and better for low action and bending. Compound starts curved at the nut and flattens toward the body — the best of both.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Fret count
22 is traditional, 24 gives you two full octaves.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Scale length
The distance from nut to bridge. Longer (25.5") feels tighter and holds low tunings better; shorter (24.75") feels slinkier and easier to bend.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Truss rod adjust
Which end you adjust from. At the headstock is easiest; at the heel is cleaner-looking but usually means loosening the neck.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Inlays
Position markers on the fretboard face.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Side dots
The small markers on the edge of the neck — the ones you actually use on a dark stage.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck binding
Trim along the fretboard edge. It hides the fret ends and feels smooth, and it is meaningful extra work.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck finish
How the back of the neck feels. Satin and oil feel fast and dry; gloss looks richer but can feel sticky in a hot room.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Headstock shape
The outline at the top. Say if you want it matched to a particular guitar.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Headstock angle
How far the headstock tilts back. More angle increases string pressure over the nut and helps tuning stability.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck angle from body
The tilt of the neck relative to the body. This has to agree with your bridge choice — we check it.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
⚠ Constraint check
Some combinations physically cannot coexist — a hardtail bridge with a steep neck angle, for example. We verify this before anything is cut.
Headstock finish
Painted to match the body, natural wood, or a contrasting colour.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Logo
Your name or brand on the headstock, if you want one.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Volute
A small reinforcing bulge behind the nut. It strengthens the weakest point on an angled headstock.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck — section notes
Anything about the neck the questions above did not cover.

Assembly

Pickup configuration
Which pickups go where — H is humbucker, S is single coil. HH is thick and quiet, SSS is classic and bright, HSS splits the difference and is the most versatile.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Pickup mount
Whether pickups mount into rings, a pickguard, or straight into the body. Mostly a look.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Pots — count + value
Your volume and tone controls. 250k is warmer and usual with single coils, 500k is brighter and usual with humbuckers.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Pot type
How the control sweeps. Audio taper feels even to the ear; linear changes fast at one end.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Push-pull positions
Pots that pull up to switch something — coil splits, series/parallel, phase. Extra sounds without extra holes.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Treble bleed
A small circuit that keeps the top end when you roll the volume down. Very useful if you ride your volume knob.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Coil split / tap
Lets a humbucker act like a single coil for thinner, brighter sounds.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Switch type
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Output jack style
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Cavity shielding
Copper or conductive paint lining the electronics pockets to cut hum. Strongly recommended with single coils.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Bridge type
Hardtail is fixed, rock-solid and stays in tune. A tremolo lets you bend pitch. A Floyd Rose does dive bombs and returns to pitch but is far more involved to set up and restring. Evertune holds pitch mechanically and never goes sharp.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Tremolo setup
How the trem is dialled in — floating bends both ways, decked only goes down and returns more reliably.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
String through body
Strings pass through the back rather than anchoring at the bridge. Slightly tighter feel and more sustain.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Tuning
What tuning you actually play in. This changes how we cut the nut and set the relief, so tell us the truth here.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Setup targets
How you want it to play — action height, relief, and how you like it to feel. If you have a number, give it; if not, describe how you play.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Assembly — section notes
Anything about the build the questions above did not cover.

Parts — Wood

Body wood blank
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Cap / top wood
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck wood blank
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Fretboard slab
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Wood — section notes

Parts — Hardware

Bridge
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Tuners (set)
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Nut
The slotted piece at the headstock end. Bone is the traditional standard; graphite and brass change feel and tuning stability, and a locking nut belongs with a Floyd Rose.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Frets (wire kit)
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Truss rod
The adjustable steel rod inside the neck that controls relief. Dual-action can correct in both directions.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Carbon fiber rods
Stiffening rods either side of the truss rod. They make the neck far more stable against seasonal movement — worth it on thin necks and multi-scale builds.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Inlay material
What those markers are made of. Pearl and abalone catch light; acrylic is consistent and cheaper.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Side dot material
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
String trees
Small guides that hold string tension down behind the nut on flat headstocks.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
String ferrules
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Tremolo springs & claw
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Strap buttons
Where the strap attaches. Locking buttons stop the guitar hitting the floor.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck plate
The metal plate on the back of a bolt-on joint.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Truss rod cover
The small plate over the truss rod access at the headstock. Pick "None needed" if your headstock has no cover, or if the truss rod is adjusted at the heel instead.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Pickguard
The plate under the strings. Structural on some shapes, purely visual on others.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Binding material
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Headstock veneer
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Logo / decal
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Control cavity cover
The plate over that pocket on the back.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Hardware — section notes

Parts — Electronics

Bridge pickup
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Middle pickup
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Neck pickup
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Pickup rings / mounts
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Pots
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Tone capacitors
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Treble bleed kit
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Switch
How you select pickups. A blade is the Strat/Tele style, a toggle is the Les Paul style.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Output jack
Where the cable plugs in.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Jack cup / plate
The mounting hardware around that jack.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Control plate (Tele)
The metal plate carrying the controls on Tele-style guitars.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Knobs
The control knobs. Purely a look and a feel.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Active preamp / battery box
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Hookup wire
Internal wiring. Cloth-covered is traditional and tidy to work with.
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Cavity shielding (copper / paint)
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Electronics — section notes

Parts — Finishing & extras

Paint / color
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Strings (the actual set)
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Case
Your choice
You picked Other — tell us what you want below.
Finishing — section notes

Notes for the build team

Customer notes / vibe
Anything at all — the sound in your head, the player you are chasing, what you hated about your last guitar. This is often the most useful box on the form.
Special instructions
Anything we must not get wrong.
0% of the build sheet filled in

Photos & design files (optional)

Upload reference photos, inspiration images, CAD files, or design drawings. Anything that helps us understand what you want — a photo of a guitar you love, a paint colour, even a napkin sketch.

You do not need to upload these separately. Drop them here and they are sent automatically when you finish the form.

📷 Photos & images
📐 CAD & design files
Your build$1,500
Standard build — no upgrades yet.
Parts$0.00
Shipping$0.00
Sales tax$0.00
Card processing$0.00
Total today$0.00
Tax comes off with a resale certificate or EIN. Paying by bank transfer skips the card fee.